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Author: Brody Pennell

Should You Really Set Your Thermostat to 78 Degrees in the Summer?

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in Thermostat.

Every summer, the same number gets repeated across energy-saving tip lists and news segments: set your thermostat to 78 degrees. It’s a tidy, memorable figure, but a lot of people who actually try it end up bumping it back down within a day, wondering if the advice was ever realistic for their home in the first place.

The truth sits somewhere in between. A 78-degree thermostat setting for summer can lower your cooling costs, but whether it feels comfortable depends on more than just the number on the display.

Where the 78-Degree Recommendation Comes From

The 78-degree benchmark has circulated for years as widely cited energy-efficiency guidance, generally framed as a starting point for when you’re home and awake, with a suggestion to raise it further while you’re asleep or away. The logic behind it is straightforward: heating and cooling account for close to half of a typical home’s energy bill, so even small adjustments to that one setting add up over a full summer.

Generally speaking, each degree you raise your thermostat can reduce your cooling costs by about 1 to 3 percent, though the exact number depends on your climate, your home’s insulation, and how long your system runs each day.

Is 78 Degrees Too Hot for a House in the Summer?

For some households, 78 feels perfectly fine. For others, especially in humid conditions or homes with a lot of west-facing windows, it can feel noticeably warmer than the number suggests. Humidity plays a bigger role in comfort than most people expect, since a humid 78-degree room feels warmer than a dry one at the same temperature.

Activity level and personal preference matter just as much. A household that’s active during the day or has young kids running around often feels warm well before 78, while a quieter household that spends more time sitting still might not notice much difference at all.

What Temperature Should You Actually Set Your Thermostat To in Summer?

There isn’t one correct answer here, since the best thermostat setting for summer depends on what you’re optimizing for.

If Saving Money Is the Priority

Set the highest temperature you can tolerate while home, and raise it further while you’re out or asleep. Every degree above your normal comfort point adds up, and a programmable or smart thermostat makes it easy to automate those higher settings without having to remember to adjust manually.

If Comfort Is the Priority

Start closer to 74 to 76 degrees and adjust from there based on how the house actually feels, rather than chasing a specific number you saw online. Comfort is personal, and a setting that works for a neighbor’s house might not work for yours if the insulation, sun exposure, or humidity levels are different.

Finding the Middle Ground

Most households land somewhere between those two approaches, which usually means testing a slightly higher setting than usual for a few days and seeing whether it’s tolerable before committing to it long-term.

Ways to Set Your Thermostat Higher Without Feeling It

A higher thermostat setting is a lot easier to live with when a few other things are working in your favor.

  • Run ceiling fans in occupied rooms: Moving air feels cooler on your skin, which lets you raise the thermostat a few degrees without noticing the difference.
  • Close blinds on sun-facing windows: Blocking direct sunlight during peak afternoon hours keeps rooms from heating up in the first place.
  • Avoid heat-generating tasks during the hottest hours: Running the oven or dryer in the afternoon adds heat your AC then has to work against.
  • Keep up with annual maintenance: A system that isn’t losing efficiency to a dirty coil or low refrigerant charge can maintain a higher setting more comfortably than one that’s already struggling.

None of these changes require lowering the thermostat, but together they make a higher setting feel far more livable.

Getting More Out of Every Degree

If you’re trying to find a summer setting that actually works for your home, a smart thermostat makes the whole process easier by automating the higher setback temperatures while you’re away or asleep. And if your system struggles to keep up even at a modest setting, that’s often a sign it’s overdue for maintenance rather than a reason to lower the thermostat further. Brody Pennell Heating & Air Conditioning can take a look at your system and help you figure out what setting is realistic for your home. Contact us today to schedule a visit.

Frequently Asked Questions About Summer Thermostat Settings

Is 78 degrees too hot for a house in the summer?

It depends on the home and the household. Humidity, sun exposure, and personal preference all affect how 78 degrees actually feels, so it’s a reasonable starting point rather than a guarantee of comfort for every house.

What temperature should I set my thermostat to save money in the summer?

The highest setting you can comfortably tolerate while home, raised further while you’re asleep or away, will generally save the most. Even a few degrees higher than your usual setting can meaningfully lower cooling costs over a full summer.

Does raising my thermostat really lower my energy bill?

Yes. Each degree you raise your thermostat reduces how hard your system has to work, which translates to lower cooling costs, though the exact savings depend on your home’s insulation, climate, and system efficiency.

Air Purifiers for Wildfire Smoke: Are They Worth It?

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in Indoor Air Quality.

Wildfire season in Los Angeles usually means the same routine: check the air quality index, close the windows, and wait for the smoke to clear. Somewhere in that routine, most people start wondering whether an air purifier for wildfire smoke is actually worth buying or if it’s just another product that sounds better than it performs.

The short answer is that the right air purifier can make a real difference. The catch is that “right” is doing a lot of work in that sentence, since not every unit on the shelf is built to handle smoke-sized particles.

Do Air Purifiers Actually Work Against Wildfire Smoke?

Wildfire smoke is made up mostly of fine particulate matter, the kind small enough to slip past a basic filter and settle deep in the lungs. A purifier only helps if it’s rated to capture particles in that size range, which is where a lot of budget units fall short. They’ll pull larger dust and pollen out of the air just fine, but smoke particles pass right through.

That’s not a reason to write off air purifiers altogether. It just means the filtration type matters more than the price tag or the brand name on the box.

What to Look for in an Air Purifier for Wildfire Smoke

Not every air purifier on the market is built for smoke-sized particles, so a few technical details are worth checking before you buy or upgrade one for your home.

HEPA Filtration

A true HEPA air purifier for wildfire smoke is built to capture at least 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns, which covers the fine particulate matter that makes wildfire smoke a health concern in the first place. Not every filter labeled “HEPA-type” or “HEPA-like” actually meets that standard, so it’s worth checking the specifics before assuming a unit qualifies.

MERV-13 Filters for Central Systems

If your home already has central air, upgrading to a MERV-13 air filter is one of the most effective changes you can make. Unlike a portable unit that only treats one room, a MERV-13 filter works on every cycle of air moving through your ductwork, which means your whole home benefits every time the system runs. The catch is that not every HVAC system can handle a MERV-13 filter without a hit to airflow, so it’s worth having a technician confirm your system can accommodate one before you make the switch.

A properly fitted MERV-13 filter, sized and installed correctly, captures the same fine particulate matter that makes wildfire smoke a health concern in the first place. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has researched DIY air cleaners built around MERV-13 filters and found they meaningfully reduce indoor smoke concentrations, which is a good indicator of how effective the filter media itself is. 

But a box fan rigged up in one room is a different situation than a filter built into a whole-home system: the DIY versions only clean the air in whatever room they’re sitting in, and results vary a lot based on how well the unit is put together. A correctly matched MERV-13 filter in your existing HVAC system skips both of those limitations.

Room Coverage and CADR Ratings

The best air purifier for wildfire smoke isn’t a specific brand so much as one sized correctly for the space it’s covering. Every unit has a Clean Air Delivery Rate (CADR), a number that tells you how much air it can filter per hour for a given room size. A powerful purifier in an oversized room will underperform, and an undersized one will run constantly without keeping up.

Whole-Home Purifiers vs. Portable Units

Portable purifiers are the often easier entry point since they don’t require any changes to your HVAC system, and they’re a reasonable fit for treating a single bedroom or living space during a smoke event. The tradeoff is that they only clean the air in the room they’re sitting in.

A whole-home air purifier installs directly into your ductwork, so every cycle of air moving through your HVAC system passes through it first. For homes where several rooms need protection at once, or for anyone who wants coverage without moving a unit from room to room, that’s usually the more practical long-term option.

How Do I Keep Wildfire Smoke Out of My House Beyond a Purifier?

An air purifier works best as one part of a bigger approach rather than a standalone fix. A few other steps make a real difference in indoor air quality during a wildfire: 

  • Seal gaps around doors and windows: Weatherstripping and door sweeps close off the small openings that let smoky air seep in over time.
  • Replace your HVAC filter more often: Swap it monthly during heavy smoke stretches instead of following your usual filter replacement schedule.
  • Set your thermostat fan to run continuously: Keeping air moving through your system’s filter, rather than cycling on and off, filters more air over the course of a day.
  • Skip anything that adds new particles indoors: Candles, aerosol sprays, and even vacuuming can undo some of the progress a purifier is making.

None of these steps replace a purifier on their own, but combined with one, they close most of the gaps smoke can use to get inside.

Getting the Right Setup for Your Home

If you’re trying to figure out whether a portable unit, a whole-home system, or a filter upgrade makes the most sense for your house, Brody Pennell Heating & Air Conditioning can walk you through the options based on your home’s actual layout and HVAC setup. Our team installs whole-home air purification systems throughout Los Angeles, and we’re happy to point you toward the right filter upgrade if a full system isn’t what you need. 

Contact us today to talk through what would actually help in your home.

Frequently Asked Questions About Air Purifiers for Wildfire Smoke

Do air purifiers work against wildfire smoke?

Yes, as long as the unit is rated to capture fine particulate matter. True HEPA purifiers and MERV-13 filtration are both effective against smoke-sized particles, but lower-grade filters typically aren’t.

What’s the best air purifier for wildfire smoke?

There isn’t one universal answer, since the right choice depends on the size of the space and whether you need a portable unit or whole-home coverage. Look for true HEPA filtration and a CADR rating that matches your room size, or ask about a whole-home system if you want your HVAC to handle it.

How long does wildfire smoke stay in the air?

It depends on the fire’s size, wind patterns, and local air quality conditions, and can range from a day to over a week during a prolonged smoke event. Running a properly rated purifier or upgraded HVAC filter throughout that stretch helps keep indoor air cleaner even while outdoor conditions remain poor.

Understanding the 20-Degree Rule for Your AC

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in Cooling Tips.

During a serious heatwave, it’s common to set the thermostat to 70 and wonder why the house won’t get there. The system runs constantly and the vents feel like they’re blowing cold air, yet the indoor temperature still won’t budge past 78. 

In most cases, this isn’t a sign that anything is broken. It’s a physical limit that HVAC professionals refer to as the 20-degree rule. Understanding it can save you a service call and a lot of frustration during the hottest stretch of the year.

What Is the 20-Degree Rule?

The 20-degree rule is a general guideline stating that a properly functioning residential air conditioner can cool a home to roughly 20 degrees below the outdoor temperature and not much further. If it’s 100 degrees outside, expecting your indoor temperature to hold at 78 to 80 degrees is realistic. Expecting it to hold at 70 usually isn’t, no matter how new or well-maintained the equipment is.

This is a rule of thumb rather than a hard scientific limit, and some systems can push slightly past it under ideal conditions. It’s still a reliable baseline for what most residential equipment is designed to handle.

Why AC Systems Have the 20-Degree Limit

Residential air conditioners are sized to handle a specific cooling load based on your home’s square footage, insulation, and typical climate conditions. That sizing calculation assumes a certain range of outdoor temperatures. When outdoor heat climbs well past that range, the system has to work harder to move the same amount of heat out of the house, and there’s a ceiling to how much heat any given unit can move per hour.

The evaporator coil, refrigerant charge, and airflow rate all have fixed capacities. Pushing a system to cool 30 or 40 degrees below the outdoor temperature would require far more capacity than a typical home’s equipment has, since the heat gain through walls, windows, and the roof keeps increasing as the outside temperature rises.

What Happens When You Push Past the 20-Degree Difference

Setting the thermostat well below what the system can realistically achieve just means the compressor runs continuously without ever satisfying the thermostat, which puts extended strain on the equipment rather than cooling the home any faster.

Extended run time also means the system cycles less efficiently and can shorten the life of components like the compressor and blower motor, which are built to run in cycles rather than continuously for days at a time. In some cases, this kind of nonstop operation contributes to a frozen evaporator coil, since a coil that never gets a break can drop below freezing even when refrigerant and airflow are otherwise fine.

How the 20-Degree Limit Affects Cooling During a Heatwave

If it’s 105 outside and your home is sitting at 82, that can simply mean the system is working exactly as designed under an unusually heavy load rather than pointing to a problem. The more useful question during extreme heat isn’t whether you’re hitting your normal thermostat setting, but whether the indoor temperature is staying reasonably close to that 20-degree difference. A home that’s 30 or 40 degrees warmer than outside, even during a heatwave, points to something worth having checked.

Getting the Most Cooling Performance in Extreme Heat

A few adjustments can help your system perform closer to its realistic limit during the hottest days.

  • Close blinds and curtains on sun-facing windows during peak afternoon hours to reduce heat gain
  • Avoid running the oven, dryer, or other heat-generating appliances during the hottest part of the day
  • Set the thermostat to a target you can actually reach rather than several degrees below it, since chasing an unreachable number just adds strain
  • Change the air filter regularly during heavy summer use, since airflow restrictions reduce the system’s real-world capacity
  • Keep up with annual maintenance so the system is operating at its full designed capacity going into summer

When Inefficient Cooling Might Be More Than the 20-Degree Rule

If your home isn’t getting anywhere close to 20 degrees below the outdoor temperature, even after a few hours of steady operation, that’s different from the system simply reaching its normal limit. Poor insulation, an undersized system, duct leaks, or a developing mechanical issue can all keep a system from hitting even a reasonable target. A technician can evaluate whether your equipment is performing at its expected capacity or whether something is holding it back.

If you’re not sure whether your AC is underperforming or just working within its limits during extreme heat, our team can take a look and let you know exactly where things stand. Contact us today to schedule an assessment.

Frequently Asked Questions About the 20-Degree Rule

Is the 20-degree rule the same for every AC system?

It’s a general guideline rather than an exact figure for every system. Newer or larger-capacity equipment may perform slightly better in extreme heat, but most residential systems fall within a similar range.

Should I set my thermostat lower during a heatwave to cool the house faster?

No. Setting the thermostat below what the system can realistically achieve just keeps the compressor running continuously without speeding up cooling, which adds strain on the equipment.

How do I know if my AC just can’t beat the heat or if something is actually wrong?

If your home stays within about 20 degrees of the outdoor temperature during a heatwave, the system is likely performing normally. If the gap is much larger than that, or the home isn’t cooling at all, it’s worth scheduling a diagnostic visit.

Does regular maintenance help my AC perform better in extreme heat?

Yes. A system with a clean filter, clean coils, and a correct refrigerant charge is operating at its full designed capacity, which matters most when outdoor temperatures are pushing the equipment to its limit.

Why Is My AC Freezing Up in July? What You Need to Know

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in Air Conditioning.

Finding ice on your air conditioner in the middle of July doesn’t seem like it should be possible. It’s 95 degrees outside, and the system has been running most of the day, yet there’s frost building up on the refrigerant lines or across the evaporator coil itself. A frozen AC in summer usually means something is interfering with the cooling process, most often restricted airflow or low refrigerant, rather than the system simply working too hard.

Why an AC Can Freeze Up When It’s Hot Outside

Your air conditioner cools your home by moving warm indoor air across a cold evaporator coil filled with refrigerant. Under normal conditions, that coil sits at a temperature cold enough to pull heat and moisture from the air but still well above freezing. If something disrupts that balance, either by slowing the air moving across the coil or by lowering the pressure inside it, the coil temperature can drop below 32 degrees. Once that happens, moisture in the air freezes onto the coil instead of condensing off it. That layer of ice then insulates the coil from the warm air passing by, which makes the problem worse the longer the system runs.

Outdoor temperature has almost nothing to do with whether the indoor coil freezes. What matters is airflow and refrigerant charge, which is why this happens just as often during a heatwave as it does in mild weather.

The Two Most Common Causes of a Frozen AC in the Summer

Nearly every frozen AC traces back to one of two issues: something is blocking airflow across the coil, or the system doesn’t have enough refrigerant to maintain a safe operating temperature.

1. Restricted Airflow

A dirty air filter is the single most common cause of a frozen coil. When air can’t move through the system freely, less warm air reaches the coil, and the coil gets colder than it’s supposed to. Closed or blocked supply vents, a dirty evaporator coil, and a weakening blower motor can all create the same effect. In each case, the fix addresses whatever is limiting airflow rather than the ice itself.

2. Low Refrigerant

Refrigerant doesn’t get used up or wear out under normal operation. If your system is low, it’s because refrigerant is leaking out somewhere in the line set or coil. A low refrigerant charge changes the pressure inside the system in a way that allows the coil to drop below freezing even when everything else is working correctly.

Why This Often Happens the First Week AC Runs Hard

Many freeze-ups occur when homeowners turn on their AC for the first time and use it heavily. A system that’s been running lightly through a mild spring can have a dirty filter or a coil that’s slowly accumulated dust without anyone noticing. Low demand doesn’t reveal those problems the way a full summer load does. The first real hot stretch of the year is often when marginal airflow issues finally catch up with the equipment.

Can I Continue to Use a Frozen AC? 

No. In most cases, continuing to operate a frozen AC usually makes the problem worse. Ice can spread further across the coil and onto the refrigerant lines. When it eventually melts, that water can overflow the drain pan or leak into surrounding areas. 

In more serious cases, liquid refrigerant can return to the compressor instead of vapor, which can cause damage that’s considerably more expensive to fix than the original problem.

What to Do If You Notice Ice on Your System

Turn the system off completely, including the thermostat, and let the ice melt fully before running it again. This can take several hours. Don’t chip or scrape the ice off, since that can damage the coil or the refrigerant lines underneath it. 

While you wait, check and replace the air filter if it looks dirty, and make sure supply vents throughout the home are open and unblocked. If the system freezes again once it’s back up and running, that points to an underlying issue that needs a professional look rather than another round of thawing.

How We Diagnose a Frozen AC

When our technicians respond to a frozen system, we start by confirming airflow through the filter, coils, and blower before checking refrigerant levels. If airflow checks out, we test the refrigerant charge and look for signs of a leak, since adding refrigerant without finding the leak just delays the same problem. Once we’ve identified the cause, we explain what we found and what it will take to fix it before any repair work begins.

If your AC has iced up this summer, our team can find out why and get it running reliably again. Contact us today to schedule an appointment. 

Frequently Asked Questions About a Frozen AC

Can I just let the ice melt and turn my AC back on?

You can, but if the underlying cause isn’t addressed, the system will likely freeze again. If it iced up once, it’s worth having a technician check airflow and refrigerant levels even if the system seems to run fine after thawing.

Does a frozen AC always mean low refrigerant?

No. Restricted airflow from a dirty filter, blocked vents, or a dirty coil causes freeze-ups just as often. A technician can determine which one is responsible.

How much does it cost to fix a frozen AC?

Cost depends on the cause. A dirty filter or blocked vent is a simple fix, while a refrigerant leak requires locating and repairing the leak before recharging the system. A diagnostic visit gives you an accurate estimate before any work begins.

How can I prevent my AC from freezing up again?

Regular filter changes and annual maintenance are the most effective ways to catch airflow and refrigerant issues before they cause a freeze-up, especially heading into the hottest stretch of summer.

Guide to Condensate Drains: What They Are, How They Work, and Why They Matter

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in HVAC Maintenance.

Most homeowners are familiar with the major components of their air conditioning system: the outdoor condenser unit, the indoor air handler, and the thermostat. The condensate drain line is less visible and gets less attention, but it plays a direct role in how well your system manages moisture and how reliably it operates over time.

This guide breaks down what condensate drains are, why they matter, and how to keep yours in working order.

What Is an AC Condensate Drain?

A condensate drain is the pathway that removes water from your air conditioning system as it operates. It consists of a drain pan located beneath the evaporator coil and a drain line that carries water out of the system and away from the home, typically through a wall, into a floor drain, or to the exterior.

The drain pan collects condensation that forms on the evaporator coil during normal operation. The drain line moves that water out continuously while the system runs. Together, they prevent moisture from accumulating inside the air handler and causing damage to surrounding components or building materials.

How Do AC Condensate Drains Work?

When your air conditioner runs, warm indoor air passes over the cold evaporator coil. As the air cools, moisture that was suspended in it condenses into liquid water on the coil surface, the same process you see when a cold glass sweats on a warm day.

That water drips into the drain pan below the coil and flows out through the condensate drain line by gravity. In some installations, a condensate pump is used to move water when the drain line can’t rely on a downward slope to the exit point. Most systems also include a float switch in the drain pan that shuts the system down if water reaches a certain level, which serves as a safeguard against overflow when the drain line is blocked.

Why Are AC Condensate Drains Important?

A functioning condensate drain keeps moisture out of places it shouldn’t be. When the drain line is clear and water is exiting the system properly, the equipment runs as intended and the surrounding area stays dry.

When the drain is blocked or compromised, water backs up into the pan. If the float switch shuts the system down, the AC stops cooling until the problem is resolved. If the system doesn’t have that safeguard, or if the pan itself overflows, water can reach ceilings, walls, insulation, and building materials, sometimes without any obvious sign until damage has already occurred. A persistently wet drain pan also creates conditions for mold growth that can affect indoor air quality over time.

How Much Water Does an AC Produce?

The amount of condensate a system generates depends on run time and the humidity level of the air it’s processing. Under moderate conditions, a residential AC might produce one to three gallons of water per day. In more humid conditions or during extended operation, that number can be higher.

In coastal Los Angeles, where ambient moisture stays relatively elevated compared to inland areas, AC systems can produce meaningful amounts of condensate even on days when temperatures aren’t particularly high. A clear, properly functioning drain line matters more in these conditions than homeowners in drier climates might expect.

Common AC Condensate Drain Problems

Most condensate drain issues fall into a few categories:

  • Algae and mold growth: This is the most frequent cause of clogs. The drain line is consistently moist and dark, conditions that are well-suited to biological growth. Over time, algae, mold, and slime build up inside the line and restrict or fully block water flow. Because this happens gradually, it often goes unnoticed until water has already backed up into the pan.
  • Debris accumulation: Dust, dirt, and airborne particles can collect in the drain pan and contribute to blockages, particularly in systems that haven’t been regularly maintained.
  • Improper slope or a disconnected line: Improper slopes or disconnected lines can prevent water from draining correctly even when the line itself is clear. In some cases, the drain line may become loose at a connection point and allow water to drip into the surrounding area rather than exiting the system as intended.

How to Clean Your AC Condensate Drain

Some basic maintenance can be done without professional help. Pouring a small amount of diluted bleach or white vinegar into the drain access port several times a year helps inhibit algae growth and slow the buildup of biological material inside the line. Most systems have an accessible port near the air handler where this can be done safely.

For a more thorough cleaning, a wet-dry vacuum can be used to suction debris from the drain line opening at the exterior exit point. This removes buildup that preventive treatments may not fully address.

If you’re seeing water near the air handler, finding standing water in the drain pan, or noticing the system shutting off unexpectedly, these steps won’t be sufficient. A blockage that has already caused backup requires professional draining service to clear properly and assess whether any damage has occurred.

When to Schedule Service

The most reliable approach is to have condensate drains inspected and cleared as part of a regular AC maintenance visit before problems develop. For most systems, annual service ahead of the cooling season is sufficient.

If your system hasn’t been maintained recently, or if you’re already seeing signs of drainage issues, scheduling professional service is the right next step. Brody Pennell Heating & Air Conditioning provides comprehensive AC maintenance for Los Angeles homeowners, including condensate drain inspection and cleaning as part of every tune-up. Contact our team to schedule service.

Coastal Humidity Control: How to Stabilize Indoor Humidity Levels

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in Humidity.

Homes near the Pacific coast deal with a different set of air quality challenges than properties further inland. Ocean air carries higher moisture content year-round, and that humidity doesn’t stay outside. It moves through gaps in building envelopes, open windows, and ventilation systems, accumulating indoors in ways that affect comfort, air quality, and the condition of the home itself.

For homeowners in coastal Los Angeles neighborhoods, understanding how humidity control works and what your HVAC system can and can’t do about it is useful, practical information.

What Humidity Does Inside a Home

Relative humidity measures the amount of moisture in the air as a percentage of what that air can hold at a given temperature. The generally recommended indoor range is between 30 and 50 percent. When levels climb consistently above that range, a few things start to happen.

Comfort is the most immediate effect. Humid air feels warmer than dry air at the same temperature because moisture slows the rate at which your body cools itself through perspiration. A home at 72 degrees with 65 percent relative humidity will feel noticeably warmer and stickier than the same home at 40 percent humidity.

Beyond comfort, sustained high humidity creates conditions that support mold and mildew growth, accelerate the deterioration of wood and building materials, and can affect indoor allergies and respiratory health for people sensitive to airborne irritants.

Why Coastal Homes Have Higher Humidity Levels

Several factors specific to coastal living make indoor humidity harder to control than in drier inland areas.

Ocean air carries significantly more moisture than air from inland regions, and that moisture infiltrates homes continuously through ventilation, gaps in the building envelope, and everyday activity like opening doors and windows. Marine layer conditions, common throughout much of the year in neighborhoods like Santa Monica, Pacific Palisades, and Rancho Palos Verdes, keep outdoor air cool and saturated for extended periods, often well into the morning hours.

Older construction along the coast, which is common in many established Los Angeles neighborhoods, often has less effective vapor barriers and air sealing than newer builds. That means more outdoor air infiltration and more moisture entering the home on a daily basis.

How Your AC Helps Dehumidify Your Home

Air conditioning systems remove moisture from indoor air as a byproduct of the cooling process. As warm air passes over the evaporator coil, it cools rapidly. When air cools below its dew point, the moisture it carries condenses on the coil surface and drains out of the system through the condensate drain line. This makes your AC a functional dehumidifier under normal operating conditions. 

In many inland climates, this incidental dehumidification is sufficient to keep indoor humidity comfortable. But in coastal environments, it often isn’t. Standard AC systems are sized and programmed to reach a target temperature efficiently. Once that temperature is reached, the system cycles off regardless of the indoor humidity level. On days when outdoor temperatures are mild but ambient moisture is high, a correctly sized system may reach its temperature setpoint before it’s had enough run time to meaningfully reduce indoor humidity. The result is a home that feels cool but still damp.

4 Ways to Manage Indoor Humidity Levels

There are several practical approaches to improving humidity control, ranging from thermostat adjustments to equipment upgrades.

1. Adjust Your Thermostat Settings

Some programmable and smart thermostats include a humidity mode or a setting that holds the fan on longer after the compressor shuts off, extending the dehumidification effect beyond the cooling cycle. If your thermostat supports this, enabling it is a low-cost first step.

2. Upgrade to a Variable-Speed Air Handler

Variable-speed air handlers run at lower speeds for longer periods, which allows more air to pass over the evaporator coil and lose moisture without over-cooling the space. For homeowners replacing equipment, this is worth factoring into the decision.

3. Limit Moisture Infiltration

Keeping windows and doors closed during high-humidity periods, particularly during morning marine layer hours, reduces the amount of outdoor moisture entering the home. Running exhaust fans in kitchens and bathrooms removes moisture generated by daily activity before it can spread to other areas.

4. Consider a Whole-Home Dehumidifier

For homes where the AC alone can’t keep up with coastal humidity levels, a whole-home dehumidifier integrated with the HVAC system is the most effective option. Unlike portable units, whole-home dehumidifiers treat all the air moving through the system and maintain a target humidity level independently of the cooling cycle.

Signs You May Need a Dehumidifier

Standard AC adjustments and ventilation habits are sufficient for many homes, but some properties need additional equipment to stay within a comfortable humidity range. Signs that a dehumidifier may be worth considering include:

  • Condensation forming regularly on windows or cold interior surfaces
  • A persistent musty smell, particularly in rooms with limited airflow
  • Visible mold or mildew in bathrooms, around vents, or in closets
  • Wood floors, cabinets, or trim that feel damp or are showing signs of warping
  • Allergy or respiratory symptoms that worsen indoors
  • Indoor humidity readings consistently above 55 percent

If several of these apply, a professional assessment of your home’s humidity levels and HVAC setup is a reasonable next step.

Improve Comfort and Air Quality with Balanced Indoor Humidity Levels

Managing indoor humidity in a coastal home requires understanding where the moisture is coming from, what your AC system can realistically handle, and where additional measures are needed. For most homeowners near the Pacific, the answer involves a combination of thermostat settings, ventilation habits, and in some cases dedicated dehumidification equipment.

At Brody Pennell Heating & Air Conditioning, our team helps Los Angeles homeowners evaluate their indoor air quality and identify the right solution for their specific home and climate. Contact us to schedule a consultation.

Quiet Comfort: How to Choose a Quiet AC Unit

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in HVAC Installation.

In denser Los Angeles neighborhoods like Santa Monica or West Hollywood, outdoor AC units often sit close to bedroom windows, shared walls, or patio spaces where noise is a genuine daily concern. Inside, a system that kicks on loudly every cycle makes itself known in ways that get old fast, particularly in smaller homes where there’s no real distance between you and the equipment.

If low noise is a priority for your next system, there are real differences between units worth understanding before you buy. Here’s what actually determines how quietly an AC runs, and what to look for when comparing options.

What Makes an AC Unit Loud?

Not all AC noise comes from the same place. Knowing the source helps narrow down the right solution.

The outdoor condenser unit is typically the biggest contributor. The compressor generates most of the sound, followed by the condenser fan. Older or lower-end compressors cycle on and off abruptly, which creates that familiar startup jolt. Variable-speed compressors ramp up and down gradually instead, which makes a noticeable difference in both noise level and consistency.

Indoor units contribute through blower noise and airflow. An oversized system short-cycling, or running in brief, frequent bursts, is louder and more disruptive than the longer, steadier cycles of a correctly sized unit. Ductwork can amplify sound, too, especially if there are restrictions, loose connections, or sections that aren’t properly insulated.

How to Use Decibel Ratings to Choose a Quieter Unit

Most manufacturers publish decibel ratings for their outdoor units. Here’s a quick reference point:

  • Normal conversation: ~60 dB
  • Typical AC condenser: 70–80 dB
  • Quieter AC models: 55–60 dB or below

Decibels are measured on a logarithmic scale, so a 10 dB drop represents roughly half the perceived loudness. A unit rated at 58 dB sounds meaningfully quieter than one at 68 dB, not just slightly so.

When comparing units, look for the decibel rating at maximum operation. Some manufacturers list ratings at lower speeds, which can make a unit appear quieter than it performs under real conditions.

3 Features That Support Quieter Operation

Not every AC unit is built the same way, and a few specific design features make a meaningful difference in how quietly a system runs day to day. Here are three to look out for when choosing a unit. 

1. Variable-Speed Compressor

This is the single most impactful factor. Variable-speed compressors adjust their output based on demand rather than running at full capacity every cycle, resulting in steadier, lower-noise operation without the abrupt startup and shutdown of a standard compressor.

2. Insulated Compressor Compartment

Some units enclose the compressor in sound-dampening material that reduces the noise radiating outward from the outdoor unit. This is particularly useful in tighter spaces where the condenser sits close to windows, patios, or shared walls.

3. Variable-Speed Air Handler

On the indoor side, a variable-speed air handler reduces blower noise and improves airflow consistency. A unit running at a lower, steadier speed produces less turbulence through the ducts, which makes a noticeable difference in how the system sounds inside the home.

Installation Factors That Affect Noise

The unit itself is only part of the equation. How it’s installed matters just as much. Here are a few factors to keep in mind when planning your installation project. 

  • Sizing: An oversized system short-cycles, which is noisier and harder on components. A proper Manual J load calculation, rather than a rough square footage estimate, is the right starting point.
  • Outdoor unit placement: Positioning the unit away from bedroom windows, using vibration-dampening pads, and ensuring adequate clearance on all sides all reduce noise in practice.
  • Duct condition: Leaky or poorly insulated ducts can turn a quiet system into a noticeably loud one by amplifying airflow sound. If your ductwork hasn’t been inspected recently, it’s worth evaluating before a new system goes in.

A Note on Ductless Systems

For homes without existing ductwork or rooms that need supplemental cooling, ductless mini-split systems are worth considering. Because there are no ducts to move air through, indoor units operate very quietly. Many ductless systems are among the lowest-noise options available, making them a practical choice for bedrooms, home offices, or any space where ambient noise is a real concern.

Ready to Find the Right System?

Choosing a quiet AC unit is partly about the equipment and partly about making sure everything around it supports low-noise operation. If noise is a priority in your next system, it’s worth having that conversation before selecting equipment.

At Brody Pennell Heating & Air Conditioning, we help Los Angeles homeowners find systems that fit their homes and their lives. Contact our team to schedule a consultation and learn which options make the most sense for your space.

Should I Have a Spring AC Performance Check?

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in HVAC Maintenance.

Most West LA homeowners don’t think much about their air conditioner until they need it, and that’s understandable. When the weather is mild, the system isn’t exactly top of mind. But the first real heatwave of the summer has a way of arriving quickly, and when it does, HVAC service schedules fill up just as fast.

A pre-season AC performance check is the simplest way to get ahead of that. Having your system looked at in May, before temperatures climb and before every other homeowner in the neighborhood is calling for the same appointment, puts you in a much better position heading into summer. Here’s why the timing matters and what a proper check actually involves.

Benefits of Scheduling HVAC Annual Maintenance for Late Spring

Timing an AC performance check for late spring isn’t just about convenience, though that’s part of it. It’s also about giving yourself options.

If a technician finds a worn capacitor, a refrigerant issue, or a blower motor that’s starting to show its age, a May appointment gives you time to address it without pressure. You can order parts, schedule repairs, and get your system back in shape before it’s needed.

By mid-July, that same repair becomes an emergency. Lead times on parts get longer when demand spikes, service appointments get harder to book, and, in the meantime, you’re waiting out a heatwave with an AC that isn’t working the way it should.

The other factor is system stress. Air conditioners that sit mostly idle through a mild Los Angeles winter and then switch abruptly to heavy use in summer are more likely to surface problems early in the season than systems that have been recently inspected. A performance check before that transition is the most reliable way to find out where things stand before the system is under real load.

What an AC Performance Check Covers

A thorough pre-season AC maintenance visit covers the components that most directly affect whether your system runs reliably when temperatures climb.

1. Refrigerant Level Inspection

Low refrigerant reduces cooling capacity and puts added strain on the compressor. Because refrigerant doesn’t deplete under normal conditions, a low charge typically points to a leak that’s worth identifying and addressing before the system runs hard all summer.

2. Electrical Components and Controls

Capacitors, contactors, and wiring connections are among the more common failure points in aging systems. Testing these components during a performance check catches the kind of gradual degradation that doesn’t always show up as an obvious symptom until something stops working entirely.

3. Coil Cleaning

Both the evaporator and condenser coils accumulate dust and debris over time. Dirty coils reduce the system’s ability to transfer heat efficiently, which means longer run times, higher energy use, and more strain on the equipment. Cleaning them restores the performance the system was designed to deliver.

4. Blower Motor and Airflow Assessment

Weak or uneven airflow is one of the more common complaints during the first hot stretch of summer. A performance check includes inspecting the blower motor, verifying airflow is balanced across the home, and confirming that nothing is restricting circulation through the system.

5. Condensate Drain Cleaning

A clogged condensate drain line can cause water to back up into the system or surrounding areas. It’s a straightforward issue to address during a maintenance visit and an easy one to overlook until it becomes a problem.

6. Thermostat Verification

A thermostat that’s reading temperatures inaccurately or responding sluggishly can make an otherwise functional system feel like it isn’t keeping up. Verifying calibration and responsiveness is a simple step that’s easy to skip and worth including.

What It Won’t Tell You

An AC maintenance check gives you a reliable picture of where your system stands at the time of the visit. It doesn’t guarantee the system won’t develop an issue later in the season, but it does significantly reduce the likelihood of a surprise. 

Most mid-season breakdowns trace back to components that were already showing signs of wear. A thorough inspection catches the majority of those before they become failures, which is about as much certainty as any mechanical system can offer.

Is AC Maintenance Worth It If the Unit Seems Fine?

This is probably the most common reason homeowners put off HVAC annual maintenance: the system ran fine last summer, so why spend money on a checkup now?

The honest answer is that air conditioning systems tend to run fine right up until they don’t. The components most likely to cause a mid-season failure, including capacitors, contactors, and refrigerant charge, don’t usually announce themselves before they go. A system that cooled your home without issue last August may have components that are one hot afternoon away from giving out.

For most homeowners, the cost of a pre-season air conditioning service is considerably less than an emergency repair call, and significantly less disruptive than waiting several days for a technician during peak season.

Schedule Your AC Performance Check Before Summer Arrives

If your system hasn’t been looked at since last year, late spring is a good time to change that. Brody Pennell Heating & Air Conditioning provides thorough pre-season AC maintenance for Los Angeles homeowners who’d rather spend July staying cool than waiting on a repair.

Contact our team today to schedule an AC performance check and head into summer with confidence.

Busting Popular Duct Cleaning Myths

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in Helpful Hints, Indoor Air Quality.

Duct cleaning is one of those HVAC services that generates a lot of conflicting information. Some homeowners are told they need it every year. Others are convinced it’s never necessary. There are $49 coupons in the mail and cautionary tales online, and somewhere in the middle is the actual answer, which is more nuanced than either extreme suggests.

The goal here isn’t to sell you on a service. It’s to give you a clear, honest picture of when cleaning your ducts makes sense, when it doesn’t, and how to tell the difference between a legitimate offer and one that isn’t worth your time or money.

When Is Duct Cleaning Actually Necessary?

The EPA and most HVAC professionals agree that duct cleaning isn’t something every home needs on a regular schedule. That said, there are situations where it genuinely makes sense.

Duct cleaning is worth considering if:

  • There’s visible mold growth inside the ducts or on components of your HVAC system
  • Your home has experienced a rodent or insect infestation, and evidence exists inside the ductwork
  • Ducts are visibly clogged with excessive dust, debris, or particulate matter that’s actively being released into the living space
  • You’ve recently completed a significant renovation that generated substantial dust and debris
  • You’ve moved into an older home with no record of prior duct maintenance

Outside of these situations, a well-maintained HVAC system with regular filter changes and routine service typically keeps ductwork in reasonable condition without intervention. The key word is “maintained.” Neglected systems are a different story.

Five Duct Cleaning Myths Worth Setting Straight

There’s no shortage of duct cleaning myths, and a lot of them stem from oversimplified advice or marketing that doesn’t reflect how HVAC systems actually work. Here are the ones we hear most often, along with what actually holds up.

Myth 1: Your Ducts Don’t Need to Be Cleaned

Some homeowners assume that because their system seems to be running fine, the ductwork is fine too. That’s not always the case.

Ducts can accumulate dust, debris, and, over years of use, biological growth, particularly in homes that have undergone renovations, experienced water intrusion, or haven’t had consistent HVAC maintenance. If any of the conditions listed above apply to your home, dismissing duct cleaning outright isn’t the right call. The honest answer is that ductwork condition varies by home, and an inspection is the only reliable way to know where yours stands.

Myth 2: Annual Duct Cleaning Is Required

This is probably the most common misconception. For most homes with a properly functioning HVAC system and regular filter maintenance, annual duct cleaning isn’t necessary or supported by industry guidance.

The EPA doesn’t recommend routine duct cleaning on a set schedule. Instead, the recommendation is to clean ducts when there’s a specific, documented reason to do so. If a technician tells you that your ducts require annual cleaning, that’s worth questioning.

Myth 3: DIY Duct Cleaning Works Just as Well

Consumer-grade vacuum attachments and duct-cleaning kits are widely available and can remove some surface-level dust from accessible register areas. What they can’t do is reach the full length of a duct system, dislodge debris that has settled deeper in the ductwork, or address any underlying issues that may have contributed to the buildup in the first place.

Professional duct cleaning uses specialized equipment, including high-powered vacuums and rotary brushes, designed to access and clean the entire system. It’s also performed alongside an inspection that can identify problems a DIY approach would miss entirely. For surface-level dust near registers, a good vacuum does the job. For actual duct cleaning, it doesn’t come close.

Myth 4: Duct Cleaning Always Improves Indoor Air Quality

This one requires some nuance. Duct cleaning can contribute to better indoor air quality, particularly when there’s meaningful contamination inside the ductwork. But it isn’t a blanket solution for IAQ concerns, and in homes where the ducts are in reasonable condition, the impact may be minimal.

If indoor air quality is your primary concern, the more consistent and impactful steps are regular filter changes with an appropriately rated Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (MERV) filter, routine HVAC maintenance, and addressing humidity or ventilation issues. Duct cleaning services may be part of the picture in some cases, but they’re rarely the whole answer.

Myth 5: Duct Cleaning Damages Your Air Ducts

When performed correctly by a qualified technician using appropriate equipment, duct cleaning doesn’t damage ductwork. This concern is more legitimate in older homes with flex duct or deteriorating materials, where aggressive cleaning methods could cause issues. A reputable provider will inspect the system before cleaning and adjust their approach accordingly.

The risk of damage is real if the work is done carelessly or by someone using equipment that isn’t suited to your system. That’s an argument for vetting your provider carefully and opting for professional duct cleaning services, not for avoiding the service altogether when it’s genuinely needed.

How to Spot a Duct Cleaning Offer That Isn’t Worth Taking

A few things to watch for when evaluating duct cleaning offers:

  • Unusually low flat-rate pricing. Offers in the range of $49–$99 for whole-home duct cleaning are almost always a starting point for upselling rather than a realistic price for legitimate service. Professional duct cleaning involves specialized equipment and takes time to do properly.
  • Guarantees around mold removal or IAQ improvement. As covered above, these are claims a reputable provider won’t make without a proper inspection and a clear understanding of what’s actually going on in the system.
  • No inspection before quoting. A provider who quotes a flat price without evaluating your system first doesn’t have enough information to make that quote meaningful.
  • Pressure tactics. Legitimate HVAC providers give you information and let you decide. If the pitch relies on urgency or fear, that’s worth noting.

The Bottom Line on Duct Cleaning

Duct cleaning is a legitimate service that makes sense in specific situations. It isn’t something most homes need annually, it isn’t a substitute for routine HVAC maintenance, and it isn’t a cure-all for indoor air quality concerns. But when the conditions are right, it’s worth doing and worth doing properly.

If you’re not sure whether your home’s ductwork is due for attention, the most straightforward step is an honest evaluation from a qualified technician. At Brody Pennell Heating & Air Conditioning, we’ll give you a clear picture of what we find and what, if anything, we’d recommend, without the pressure. 

Contact our team to schedule an HVAC inspection or learn more about our indoor air quality services in Los Angeles.

The Impact of Attic Ventilation on AC Efficiency

Written by Brody Pennell on . Posted in Cooling Tips, Energy Efficiency.

When people think about improving AC efficiency, they usually focus on the equipment itself. Upgrading to a high-efficiency unit, changing filters more often, or scheduling maintenance are all part of the conversation.

What tends to get overlooked is the space directly above the system. Your attic plays a bigger role in cooling performance than most homeowners realize. When ventilation isn’t working the way it should, it can quietly drag down efficiency across the entire system.

If you’re trying to get more consistent cooling or reduce energy use, it’s worth understanding how attic conditions factor into the equation.

Why Attic Temperature Matters More Than You Think

On a warm day, attic temperatures can climb well above the outdoor air temperature. It’s not unusual for an attic to reach 120°F or higher, especially in areas like Los Angeles, where direct sun exposure and roofing materials amplify heat buildup.

That heat doesn’t stay contained. It radiates downward into the living space and affects everything around it, including ductwork, insulation, and the overall thermal balance of the home.

Your AC system then has to compensate for that added heat load. It runs longer cycles, works harder to maintain the set temperature, and uses more energy in the process. Even a power-efficient AC system will struggle to keep up if the attic is consistently overheating.

The Link Between Attic Ventilation and AC Efficiency

Attic ventilation is designed to move hot air out and bring cooler air in, helping regulate temperature and moisture levels. When that airflow is balanced and unobstructed, it reduces the amount of heat that builds up during the day.

That directly impacts AC efficiency in a few key ways:

  • It lowers the overall heat load on the home. With less heat transferring from the attic into living areas, your system doesn’t have to run as long to maintain comfort.
  • It helps protect ductwork. In many homes, ducts run through the attic. When they’re surrounded by extreme heat, the air inside them warms up before it ever reaches your vents. Keeping the attic cooler helps preserve the temperature of the conditioned air moving through the system.
  • It supports more stable indoor temperatures. Homes with poor attic ventilation often experience uneven cooling, especially in upper levels or rooms closest to the attic space.

Signs Your Attic Ventilation May Be Affecting Performance

You don’t need to spend time in your attic to notice when something isn’t right. The effects tend to show up in how your home cools and how your system behaves.

Some of the more common indicators include:

  • Rooms that stay warmer than the rest of the house
  • Longer cooling cycles or a system that rarely seems to shut off
  • Higher energy bills without a clear change in usage
  • Noticeable temperature differences between floors
  • A home that feels harder to cool during peak afternoon hours

These issues don’t always point exclusively to ventilation, but they’re often connected.

How to Manage Attic Ventilation and Improve AC Efficiency: 4 Tips

Improving attic ventilation requires a combination of airflow, insulation, and system design working together. 

1. Balance Intake and Exhaust Ventilation

A properly ventilated attic relies on a balance between intake vents, typically located along the eaves, and exhaust vents near the roof peak. This setup allows hot air to rise and exit while drawing in cooler air from outside.

If either side is restricted, airflow becomes limited, and heat starts to accumulate.

2. Ensure Your Insulation Works With Ventilation

Insulation helps slow heat transfer between the attic and living space, but it can’t do its job effectively if ventilation is poor. In some cases, insulation can even block airflow if it’s improperly installed.

The goal is to have both systems working together. Ventilation manages heat and moisture, while insulation helps keep that heat from moving into the home.

3. Consider Duct Placement and Condition

Ducts located in the attic are directly affected by surrounding temperatures. If they’re poorly insulated or have leaks, they lose efficiency quickly in a hot environment.

Keeping attic temperatures lower helps those ducts perform closer to their intended design, which supports overall AC efficiency.

4. Explore Upgrading to High-Efficiency Equipment

Upgrading to a high-efficiency unit can absolutely improve performance and reduce energy use, but that upgrade works best when the rest of the home supports it.

If the attic is holding excessive heat, even a newer system will have to work harder than it should. That can limit the expected efficiency gains and shorten the lifespan of the equipment over time.

Addressing attic ventilation doesn’t replace the need for a quality AC system, but it helps that system operate under more favorable conditions.

A Whole-Home Approach to AC Efficiency

Upgrading your HVAC system can improve efficiency, but, in truth, the environment the system operates in matters as much as the equipment itself. 

When attic ventilation is working properly, it reduces unnecessary heat buildup, supports more consistent indoor temperatures, and allows your system to run more efficiently without added strain.

If your home feels harder to cool than it should, or your system seems to be working overtime, it may be worth looking beyond the unit itself. Attic conditions are often part of the picture, and addressing them can make a noticeable difference in both comfort and performance.